A dripping shower arm connection isn’t just annoying—it can lead to water damage, mold growth, and wasted water. The good news? This is one of those bathroom fixes that looks intimidating but is actually pretty straightforward once you understand what’s happening. I’ve dealt with this issue more times than I’d like to admit, and fixing that persistent drip between your shower head arm and the wall pipe usually comes down to a few simple solutions.
Understanding Why Your Shower Arm Connection Drips
Before grabbing your tools, it helps to know what’s causing the leak. The connection between your shower head and the shower arm extension (that curved or straight pipe coming out of your wall) relies on a tight seal, usually created by thread tape and a rubber washer. Over time, that seal breaks down.
Water pressure constantly pushes against this connection, and if there’s even a tiny gap, water finds its way through. Sometimes it’s because the shower arm replacement wasn’t installed correctly in the first place. Other times, it’s just age—minerals in your water corrode the threads, washers deteriorate, or the wall mounted arm itself develops microscopic cracks.

I learned this the hard way when I ignored a small drip for months. What started as a few drops became a steady trickle, and I eventually noticed water stains forming on my bathroom ceiling below. That got my attention fast.
Quick Fixes You Can Try First
Start with the simplest solution: tightening the connection. Turn off your shower (obviously), then use an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench to gently tighten where the shower head arm meets the wall. Wrap a cloth around the shower arm first to protect the finish—learned that after scratching up a chrome shower arm extension once.
Turn it clockwise, but here’s the thing: don’t go crazy with the torque. You want it snug, not overtightened. If you crank too hard, you can actually crack the fitting or damage the threads, making your leak worse. Give it maybe a quarter to half turn past hand-tight.
If tightening doesn’t stop the drip, the next step is checking the shower head itself. Unscrew it from the shower arm and inspect the rubber washer inside the connection nut. This little gasket is crucial for creating that watertight seal. If it looks flat, cracked, or has mineral buildup, replace it. You can find replacement washers at any hardware store for less than a dollar.
The Proper Way to Reseal Your Shower Arm Connection
When simple tightening doesn’t work, you’ll need to remove and reseal the shower arm replacement. This sounds more complicated than it is, I promise. You’ll need Teflon thread seal tape (the white or pink stuff), an adjustable wrench, and maybe some penetrating oil if the connection is really stubborn.
First, turn off the water supply to your shower if possible. If you can’t isolate just the shower, you might need to shut off your home’s main water. Remove the old shower head arm by turning it counterclockwise with your wrench. Sometimes these connections are tight—I’ve had ones that required significant muscle and some creative leverage.

Once it’s off, clean both the wall pipe threads and the shower arm threads thoroughly. Use an old toothbrush and some vinegar to remove mineral deposits and old tape residue. This step matters more than you’d think—you need clean threads for a proper seal.
Now wrap the threads of the wall pipe with fresh Teflon tape. This is where people mess up: wrap it clockwise (the same direction you’ll screw the shower arm on), and use 3-5 wraps. Too little tape won’t seal; too much makes it impossible to thread properly. I usually do four wraps, stretching the tape slightly as I go so it adheres to itself.
Thread the shower arm extension back on by hand first, getting it as tight as you can manually. Then use your wrench to snug it up—again, not too tight. You want the shower arm to point the right direction when it’s properly sealed. This might take a couple tries to get the tape thickness just right.
When You Need a Complete Shower Arm Replacement
Sometimes the shower arm itself is the problem. If you see corrosion, cracks, or if the threads are stripped, no amount of tape will fix it. You need a new wall mounted arm entirely.
This is actually where investing in quality matters. I replaced a cheap shower arm three times in five years before finally getting a proper one. The StoneStream Shower Head Arm caught my attention because it’s made from 201 stainless steel rather than the brass or cheap alloys you typically find.

The difference is real. Stainless steel doesn’t corrode like other materials, and the build quality means the threads stay true even after multiple removals. It has that universal 1/2 inch connection that fits any standard shower setup, and at $9.90, it’s honestly cheaper than some of the garbage I wasted money on before.
What I appreciated most was how the joints tighten properly without cross-threading. Some shower arm replacements have threads that feel loose or misaligned from day one. This one threaded on smoothly and created a solid seal with just the standard Teflon tape application.

The matte black finish looks sharp too, though I’ll admit that’s secondary to function. But if you’re fixing a leak anyway, might as well upgrade the aesthetics while you’re at it.
Preventing Future Shower Arm Leaks
Once you’ve fixed your dripping connection, you obviously don’t want to deal with it again. A few simple habits help: don’t hang towels or caddies from your shower head arm—that extra weight stresses the connection over time. When you do remove your shower head for cleaning, always check that rubber washer and replace it if needed.
If you have hard water, consider installing a water softener or at least descaling your shower arm connection annually. Those mineral deposits are silent killers of plumbing seals. I flush mine with vinegar once a year now, which takes maybe ten minutes and seems to help.
And honestly, start with quality components. The cheap shower arm extensions at big box stores might save you five bucks upfront, but they’ll cost you time and frustration later. A rust-resistant shower arm made from actual stainless steel will outlast three cheap ones and maintain its seal better throughout its life.
Final Thoughts on Fixing That Annoying Drip
A dripping shower arm connection is fixable with basic tools and a little patience. Start simple—tighten, check the washer, reseal with fresh Teflon tape. If your shower head arm is old or corroded, replacement is straightforward and inexpensive, especially when you choose something built to last.
I’ve found that most people overcomplicate this repair or ignore it until it becomes a bigger problem. Neither approach is necessary. The StoneStream Shower Head Arm gives you the quality you need without the premium price tag, and the installation takes less time than one episode of your favorite show.
Fix it right once, and you won’t be dealing with drips and water damage down the road. Get a quality shower arm replacement and solve this problem permanently. Learn More
Frequently Asked Questions
How much Teflon tape should I use when installing a shower arm?
Use 3-5 wraps of Teflon tape around the wall pipe threads, wrapping clockwise in the same direction you’ll thread the shower arm. Four wraps is usually the sweet spot. Stretch the tape slightly as you wrap so it adheres to itself. Too little tape won’t create a proper seal and you’ll still have drips, while too much tape makes it nearly impossible to thread the shower arm on properly and can actually damage the threads.
Can I fix a leaking shower arm without turning off the water?
You can try tightening the connection without shutting off water, but for any repair involving removal of the shower arm, you absolutely need to turn off the water supply first. If you can’t isolate just the shower, shut off your home’s main water valve. Attempting removal with water on creates a messy situation and makes proper thread cleaning and tape application basically impossible.
Why does my shower arm keep leaking even after I tighten it?
Persistent leaks after tightening usually mean the rubber washer inside your shower head connection is worn out, the Teflon tape on the threads has degraded, or the shower arm itself has corroded threads or cracks. Overtightening can also strip threads and make leaks worse. Remove the shower arm, inspect for damage, replace the washer, clean the threads thoroughly, apply fresh Teflon tape, and reinstall. If leaks continue, the shower arm likely needs replacement.
What’s better for shower arms: brass or stainless steel?
Stainless steel shower arms like the StoneStream model offer superior rust resistance and durability compared to brass, especially in hard water areas. While brass is traditional and works adequately, it corrodes over time and develops that greenish patina. Stainless steel maintains its appearance and structural integrity much longer. The 201 stainless steel used in quality shower arms combines strength with corrosion resistance that outlasts brass alternatives, particularly in humid bathroom environments.
How do I remove a stuck shower arm that won’t budge?
Spray penetrating oil like WD-40 around the connection where the shower arm meets the wall and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Use an adjustable wrench with a cloth protecting the finish, and turn counterclockwise with steady pressure—don’t jerk it. If it’s really stuck, try heating the connection gently with a hair dryer to expand the metal slightly. As a last resort, you may need to cut the old shower arm off with a hacksaw and use a pipe extractor tool to remove the remaining threaded portion from the wall.